electrical

Carbs, Pumps - It's all a Gas!

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sweetdeal49
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electrical

Post by sweetdeal49 » Mon Feb 8th, 2010 9:15

How hard is it to convert to 12 volt system ? And where can you get the 12 volt kit? THANKS from sweetdeal49 8)

Johnny_S
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Re: electrical

Post by Johnny_S » Mon Feb 8th, 2010 1:21

I don't believe there is any single "kit" available. You can find a lot of information on doing such a conversion in some of the old messages posted on this site or you can check the archives over at P15-D24 or you can simply search the web for other makes/models/years that have done the same.

1. Even if you switch your wiring must be in good condition. Six volt wiring can easily handle 12v if its in "nominal" shape.

2. Gauges need to be dealt with .... think both polarity and voltage.

3. Light bulbs need to be replaced.... a voltage issue

4. Starter may or may not need to be rebuilt. .... voltage issue ... although our 6v starters can take 12v pretty well as long as you aren't grinding them endlessly.

5. Charging system needs to be adjusted accordingly. Generator vs. Alternator. Regulator versus no regulator ... polarity is an issue as well.

6. Radio .... may need to be rebuilt, replaced or otherwise taken into consideration. Some just convert their old radio with a rebuild, others install a new radio completely, some do without and just don't hook the original 6 volt radio up .... others find a way to reduce the voltage from 12v to 6v. Polarity may be an issue. I've heard "yes" and I've heard "no" .... don't know personally.

7. You must understand the concept of grounding .... positive vs. negative. OEM system is 6v positive ground .. often the new system ends up being 12v negative ground. There are implications to making such a change that need to be understood.

The question really is .... what compels you to make the switch over to 12 volts? Most everything you need to do can be done on 6 volts ... exceptions being air conditioning and running a LOT of additional accessories that require 12 volts.

John

Johnny_S
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Re: electrical

Post by Johnny_S » Mon Feb 8th, 2010 1:23

Oh ... and before I forget to say it ..... WELCOME to the Board.

sweetdeal49
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Re: electrical

Post by sweetdeal49 » Mon Feb 8th, 2010 2:27

Thats awesome John thanks for all that information, I guess im not used to the slow cranking of a six volt system. Do you know any thing about that plug on the bottom of the fuel tank?

sweetdeal49
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Re: electrical

Post by sweetdeal49 » Mon Feb 8th, 2010 2:29

By the way its awesome to be part of this forum, a place to go to for questions about 49 ply

Johnny_S
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Re: electrical

Post by Johnny_S » Mon Feb 8th, 2010 8:14

If you aren't considering adding any new sophisticated systems like Air or a huge SubWoofer or an Amp ... or ??? you might just try going through the existing system and making sure that its operating at "like new" specs.

Check the battery cables .... they should be at least "1 gauge" but preferably "0" or "00" gauge copper.

Make sure you have a good solid ground with real metal to metal contact.

Make sure your starter isn't "dragging" .... drawing excessive power and not giving you proper performance. Old starters have a tendency to gum up with dirt and grease, the brushes wear out and drag, the armature doesn't draw right .... so, if in doubt, have your starter rebuilt to specs. See if you can find an old timer who knows how to work on old 6v equipment.

Make sure your system is grounded correctly .... the positive cable off the battery should be the one going to the grounding point on the head of the engine. Usually one of the front two head bolts on the driver side.

Make sure the battery cables and connections are clean (not corroded or loose).

Check for any bad wiring in the engine compartment that might be drawing the battery down?

Check the battery .... do you have the correct one? Is it in good shape?

Are the spark plugs in good connection and the correct ones? Are they gapped properly? What about the points and the coil?

Those are some basic things to look at / for. The car should start just fine with 6v if all these items are understood and attended to.

John

sweetdeal49
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Re: electrical

Post by sweetdeal49 » Mon Feb 8th, 2010 8:38

Thanks john , I checked all that had some bad plugs and corroded cables , with all that done the fuel tank dropped now shopping for a new tank , havent had any luck finding one, might have to go with a fuel cell. Im very anxious to get her running since i heard her run off gas i poured down the carb. Thanks again john for all the info.

p18plywood
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Re: electrical

Post by p18plywood » Tue Feb 9th, 2010 5:49

You might consider having the old tank rebuilt if it is not too rusted out. There are plces like Gas Tank Renu. There might be someone locally who could boil it out clean. It is hard to find replacement tanks, but you could place an add on this site and the p15d24.com and oldplymouths.com as well. Someone may just have a parts car they are parting out. As a matter of fact I believe I just recently saw someone parting out a 49 on p15d24.com. Check then out.
Gerry

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Re: electrical

Post by Johnny_S » Tue Feb 9th, 2010 6:12

I'd second the vote for doing R&R on the old tank if its not too far gone. I saw a product demonstration the other day at a swap meet for a product called KBS Permacoatings. They have a gas tank kit that's fairly priced and might well do everything that you need. Gerry's note above provides another good vendor. I've seen replacement tanks (reproduction new) selling in the $250 plus dollar range and used tanks for up to about $150 or so. And even those should probably be treated before they go into service. Most of the coatings will seal small pinhole problems. I would caution that if you pull the tank and dump it make sure you take special caution before you try to do any welding on / near it. Tanks emptied of fuel may NOT (are not) be emptied of fumes and they can still make a mess if they ignite.

I've seen one setup where the person put gravel or ball bearings or both inside the tank and then let is roll round and round while attached to a small concrete mixer. That would clean the interior of most of the rust and scale. The KBS Permacoating I mention above is applied over the fairly clean (no scale) but still rusted surface and hardens to almost glass like hardness. The demonstration piece could not be scratched with a metal screwdriver it was that hard. Apparently its gas resistant too.

Obviously you would need to remove the fuel tank sending unit and other pieces that can be removed.

On our tanks the filter is built into the tank as a permanent one and is cleaned by back flushing up the fuel line back into the tank with compressed air. I'm sure a solvent of some sort would be helpful as well but not a highly flamable one.

SHAUN
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Re: electrical

Post by SHAUN » Sat Mar 13th, 2010 6:39

Hi I just re wired my everyday Driver to 12volt - ground, Its not to bad to convert to 12 volt, A few things I did that might help are,
1, Sealed Headlamp bulbs are available from Napa part no H6024 $16.37each (very easy to switch) all other bulbs will need changing.

2, Gauges will work fine (see note for fuel gauge) you will need to swap bulbs to 12v.

3, I was unsure about the Fuel gauge some say it will work fine others say not, my sender was shot, and being cheap and poor, I brought a generic one on Amazon for $12.00, its was not to difficult to convert this to fit the Plymouth tank, And because it acts as a resistor it worked well with the 12volt, although the gauge does not read 100% it good enough for me.

4, Heater Blower will run on 12volt and as a Old Timer told me "she will blow so fast as to blow a Lady's skirt up" I did not want any skirt blowing or Car burning, so I brought a voltage reducer from Napa Part No vt6188, it came with a bracket to mount it, you will need to mount it on the Fire Wall under the hood, because they do get Warm, but work well, and are cheap, This is the only part on my Car still 6v so I gave it its own fuse box,

5, The horn is very loud on 12v I am unsure how long it will last, so I got a old 12v diaphragm horn on ebay $14.00.

6 Radio dont know, maybe a resistor like the heater blower, you should find out before hooking it up.

Everything else should be fine if your wiring is good, it will more than handle the 12volts I love the new headlamps so much brighter than before.

SHAUN
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Re: electrical

Post by SHAUN » Sat Mar 13th, 2010 6:43

I have been told a Ford ranger tank will fit I dont know if this is correct but you might want to take a look

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